THE EMERALD
Of all green things which bounteous earth supplies, Nothing in greenness with the emerald vies. Thus wrote, in Latin, a certain Abbot Morbodeus in the Eleventh Century. But long before, Pliny had written that "After the diamond and the pearl, the third place is given to the emerald for many reasons. No other color is so pleasing to the sight, nothing equals them in the intensity of its green.
CULTURED PEARLS PRODUCTION
While Japan was at war, and for some years afterwards, production of cultured pearls was almost at a standstill. In 1939, the industry was in full swing, and then cultivation was being carried on in at least eight localities in Japan, as well as in the island of Palao. The farms employed about 2,500 workers over a period of six months, May to October. Round beads were drilled and strung on the small island of Toba, where 250 workers were employed. Of the 200 necklaces strung daily, only some 20 were exported in strung bunches of approximately the same qualities, the number of pearls and the weight in grains often being noted on each necklace.
The principal selling centers were Paris, London, Bombay, New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, Tokyo, and Kobe. But disturbances caused by the outbreak of war in 1939 gradually brought the industry to a standstill. Further, tidal waves and other natural disasters added to the destruction of the oysters. But new equipment and materials have been brought to the breeding grounds, and the industry has been revived. Exports of pearls are, however, controlled, and most of the pearls are being sold to the U.S.A.
CULTURED PEARLS
Most of us are familiar with cultured pearls for they have been a part of almost every jeweler's stock since just before the war years of 1939 and onwards. To the uninitiated, they look very much like natural pearls, but to those who are accustomed to handling the natural gem, there is seldom any doubt as to their true origin. If doubt does exist, proof positive is readily obtainable by the use of the endoscope or other instruments. Examina-tion by radiography allows a large number of specimens to be examined quickly, but the X-ray diffraction method is the best.
The production of the cultured pearl is based on the knowledge of the causes which produce the natural pearl, the best conditions under which it is formed, and the habits of the oysters. We have already seen that a pearl is formed by the accidental introduction of an irritant against the soft body of the oyster, and this irritant is covered by layers of pearl material by the oyster in its attempt to expel or isolate it. In cultured pearls, the irritant is artificially supplied, but the layers around this nucleus are the same as in natural pearls, although the skin is only one-tenth or less of the total diameter of the specimen.
PEARLS SALE
When the pearls are ready for sale in the open market, they are sent either to London or to Paris. Usually a definite price is not fixed for each bundle or parcel, this being contrary to all Eastern ideas of business. An absurdly high price, generally referred to as the limit, is quoted. Offers are then taken, often through importing agents, brokers, or banks, and attex much time and haggling, a final price is at length agreed upon. This is the usual method adopted by the Indians, and perhaps this is the best procedure to obtain the highest price for their goods. From the pearl dealers, the gems eventually find their way into shops as necklaces or in mounted jewelry.
Originally, Goa was the pearl market of the East, as well as the meeting place of buyers and sellers of all kinds of precious stones, since there trade was free and unhampered by the restrictions often levied by native kings and princes. But today, Bombay is the pearl marketing center, and European and American buyers are sometimes found there at the beginning of the pearl season, especially if it is pronounced to be promising.
PEARL SOURCES
The chief sources of supply of pearls are the Persian Gulf, Ceylon (off the north coast of Colombo in the Gulf of Manaar, and especially off the Goajira Peninsula),' Australia, Venezuela, Japan, the Red Sea, Panama, and the Pacific Isles. The Persian Gulf fisheries are the most important, and the chief pearl markets in Europe are Paris and London. It is to these cities, and to New York, that most of the fine pearls are sent for sale, although a certain number are sold in India.
In Europe, Paris is the center of the pearl trade, although consignments are still made to London banks and shipping houses from Bombay. The Rue Lafayette in Paris corresponds to Hatton Garden in London, and to Maiden Lane in New York. In these streets, dealers, merchants and brokers in pearls (and diamonds) have their offices, although much business is still done in clubs, cafes, and even in the open street. These traders are of all nationalities, and their activities are often international.